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More notes on Using Kadee couplers on British stock
I am indebted to Peter Barton for providing me his notes and experiences on converting to kadee couplers.
Here are some basics that I wish someone had explained to me when I first started.
Firstly decide whether you are a collector or an operator. You can often
do the conversion in a way that's reversible if you want to restore the
vehicle to its original condition but it's usually more difficult and
often does not look as good. Unless you are likely to want to sell the
model in the future I would say remove the original coupling and all its
mountings etc.
Coupling types:
The 30 and 40 series are all you are likely to need plus, possibly the
16's etc - see below. The 30 series have plastic shanks and the 40 series
are metal but the shanks are otherwise interchangeable. Each series has
9 different sub-types, three knuckle heights for each of three shaft lengths.
The 30's have more compact draft boxes which you may need in some situations
but where possible go for the 40 series because they are cheaper. A number
5 (#5) is what would otherwise be a #46 i.e. medium length, medium offset
knuckle so use #5's wherever possible as they are the cheapest of all
and can often be bought in bulk packs which are cheaper still.
I suggest you start with a bulk pack of #5's (shank and draft box complete)
and maybe one packet each of the other 40's. You could also invest in
a packet of No 30 draft boxes and springs. This will give you at least
four of every combination so you can try them out. The 16, 17, 18, 19
couplers are for European NEM coupling pockets fitted to some Bachmann
models. They are simple to fit (just drop out the old and in with the
Kadee) BUT there are height problems with some Bachmann and I find the
new couplers tend to drop out (although no-one else seems to have this
problem). The 16's etc are very expensive compared with the 30's and 40's
and unless you want to be able to restore the original coupling, I would
use a #5 instead. (You may want to cut away the NEM pocket to get a snugger
fit.)
Tools:
From Kadee, I recommend a height gauge (virtually indispensable) and a pair
of trip pin pliers (useful but not essential). Other useful tools are:
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Needle point tweezers or pliers |
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A good heavy craft knife |
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A mini drill with cutter and rotary file attachments |
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Needle file(s) for finishing and fine adjustment |
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Jewellers (or small) screwdrivers |
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A length of test track with the height gauge fitted |
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Kadee uncoupling magnet(s) - for test purposes |
Other materials:
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Kadee Grease-em (Graphite lubricant) |
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Kadee screws and drill tap -
- not needed if you glue the couplings in place |
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Plastic solvent |
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Kadee washers and shims or -
- Plasticard in various thicknesses |
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A selection of plastic microstrip |
The last two are for building up you own shims and mounting platforms.
Mounting position - bogies (truck) or underframe:
With fixed wheelbase wagons you obviously have no choice and these are
generally very easy. With most modern stock the Kadee #5 simply fixes
to the bottom of the wagon floor - use shims if necessary but not usually
needed. I cut off the original tension coupler mounting posts but of course
that is a one way process. On tender locomotives I do not usually fit
an automatic coupling to the front (I'm a follower of Patrick Stirling
who forbade double-heading) and the tender wheelbase is usually short
enough that you can get away with body mounting. Similarly with tank engines,
the short wheelbase normally allows body mounting front and rear (unless
you have Very sharp curves).
Coaches are a different matter and it is governed by your minimum radius.
If my layout had a 3ft minimum, I would probably use underframe mounting;
it's easier and more prototypical. However, I have some radii as low as
2ft and you need to leave such a gap between vehicles it looks awful.
The overhang also makes coupling on anything approaching a curve impossible.
I therefore use bogie mounting which is usually more work but also more
practical. I recently explained the method of dealing with Hornby bogies
on the LNER Group. A final point on this; if you have say 2ft curves and
you choose to mount the coupling on the underframe, the bogies may also
need surgery to allow the bogie frames to clear the Kadee draft box on
bends.
Mounting position - lateral:
This is very subjective. Again assuming 2 ft curves, if you use the standard
#5 and unless you have very effective sprung buffers, you will need to
position the coupling far enough forward that the front of the draft box
protrudes from the underframe. You can get around this using long shank
couplers but this adds to the expense - a matter of realism and taste.
If you are using bogie mounting, I guess it does not matter as this is
un-prototypical anyway. MOST important! Check your vehicles' running in
push as well as pull mode - there is a surprising difference. The coupling
needs to keep the vehicles far enough apart that the buffers do not lock
on the sharpest curve round which they will be PROPELLED. Much closer
coupling is possible round bends where they will be hauled.
Height:
It is the knuckle height that's important. If it's easier to mount the
draft box higher or lower then do so; you can always compensate to some
extent by using an underset or overset shank. You can also use a No 30
draft box in tight situations. So don't be dismayed if at first sight
it seems impossible to fit a Kadee. That is why I suggested earlier that
you equip yourself with the full range of available coupling types.
All the text in this article is copyright
Peter Barton and may not be reproduced without permission.
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and descriptions of most couplers try www.kadee.com |
